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This 1600cc engine came to us in Keith's car. It ran bad, but only had superficial leaks. Keith wanted me to pull the engine and do all the work & put the engine back in.
I created this ad so YOU can get an idea of what it would cost to have me do to YOUR engine what I did to Keith's.
Here's what I did:
- I pulled the engine (you'll save money if you bring me your engine loose).
- I stripped the engine down to the rod bearings.
- I pulled the oil pump and inspected it. Keith's looked brand new. I re-installed it with new gaskets & lock nuts on the face.
- I pulled the drain plate, repaired 2 bad drain plate studs (1 with a helicoil), installed new gaskets and cleaned the screen & plate and re-installed. You will save money if your drain studs don't need fixing.
- I inspected the crank's rod journals and installed new German bearings on new Empi stock style connecting rods.
- I inspected his lifters with a flash light and didn't see any pitting.
- I cleaned the top of the block, around the oil pump and on both sides of the block.
- I replaced the alternator stand with a chrome one. Keith's was cracked at the filler. You'll save money if yours is good.
- A new stand gasket went on and I placed his oil filler neck on correctly.
- I replaced all 4 of his oil cooler tower seals.
- I installed a new set of AAA 87mm pistons (with Total Seal gapless 2nd rings) & cylinders. You can save a little bit of money if you want 85.5's. I won't build engines without using the Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
- I installed a new set of (53cc chamber, no deck step) stock heads. These heads put the compression ratio at 8.2:1
- I installed new gold/zinc plated push rod tubes. I cleaned and painted the air deflectors to match his car for some bling. Stock style push rod tubes are less expensive, but they rust.
- I cleaned and painted his engine compartment next to the spark plugs so it would match his tins which I also cleaned & painted (gloss black ceramic embedded heat paint).
- I cleaned and painted his oil bath air filter and the firewall tin & the rear tins.
- I cleaned his rocker assemblies and re-installed them after cleaning his push rods. One rocker assembly needed a new wavy washer so I installed it.
- I cleaned & painted his valve cover bales & valve covers.
- I cleaned and painted his intake elbows & installed them with a set of red urethane manifold boots. You will save money if your boots are fine.
- I re-jetted his carb to perform better with the new 1641cc.
- I cleaned & painted his stock steel pulley & crank bolt and his top pulley and spacer and nut.
- I cleaned and painted his fan shroud and coil mount and then wrapped his coil in a stainless steel cover. You will save money if you don't want a cool looking coil cover.
- I cleaned his heater boxes and tins.
- I removed his p-plate & clutch disc and cleaned them and his flywheel and re-assembled it all since it looked like new. You will save some money if I don't have to perform this task.
- I installed new Bosch spark plugs and trimmed the ends on his plug wires to make new contacts there with the screw on ends.
- I used new brass nuts and wavy washers on the intakes. I clearanced his alternator a tad so he can get full throttle now.
- I installed a new Empi header muffler (if yours is good you'll save money) and clamp kits since his were junk. I always install new clamp kits when doing exhaust installs.
- I put 3 quarts of new oil in the engine. Bring your own oil if you want to save a little money.
- I re-installed his belt since it looked like new.
- I connected all of the fresh air hoses and pre-heat hose with hose clamps, some of which he was missing. If you aren't missing any clamps or air hose connector pipes you will save some money.
- I installed the new engine and fired it up, began to set the timing but his point gap was too small so I had to reset the gap (if your gap is good you'll save money) and then set the timing.
- I dialed in the carb mixture screws to run the new 1641 properly.
- I ran my normal rpm tests and then took the car out for a drive. If you don't bring me your car, I'd perform the break in procedure on our Test Car and then hand you the engine already broke in. After the break in & road trip, I waited until the engine was stone cold and re-adjusted the valves.
- At this point the engine project is done. This job as I outlined it here cost $2600.00
YOU can save money if you DO NOT have me clean and paint everything that I did on Keith's engine. |
