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This 1600cc engine came to us 'out of car'.
It ran bad: 2 cylinders fired well & 2 almost not at all.
I created this ad so YOU can get an idea of what it would cost to have me do to YOUR engine what I did to Ralph's.
Here's what I did:
- I stripped the engine down to the rod bearings & discovered the #3 rod journal had been ground too wide to reuse. 2 of the cylinders had no more cross hatching in them and had oil on top of the rings on dis-assembly.
- At this point Ralph & I decided to completely rebuild the engine.
- The engine was taken down to the bare block to be cleaned & inspected. It was a tight 40 over block with a standard thrust so I could build it without machine work. It had standard springs & plungers so I replaced them with high pressure springs & new plungers.
- The oil pump was a stock small geared one that had already been installed in 2 different positions so I replaced it with a bypass filtered 32mm geared one.
- I pulled the drain plate, installed new gaskets, cleaned the screen & plate and re-installed.
- I installed a std std crank that had previously been polished & balanced with new bearings on 3 of the existing rods. The 4th rod was .018 too narrow at the big end to reuse, so I replaced it with a perfect used one. Now all rods had .012 side play.
- I inspected his lifters and saw pitting & dishing so they and the cam went into the trash. The cam was a stock 4 rivet dished style. He now has an Engle 120 with Empi drilled lobe lifters & Empi straight cut steel timing gears on Kolbenschmidt single thrust bearings.
- I replaced the alternator stand baffle with one that's installed correctly. Keith's was in wrong.
- I installed a new set of AAA 87mm pistons for 1641cc (with Total Seal gapless 2nd rings) & cylinders. I won't build engines without using the Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
- The stock heads were reused since they didn't look that old and didn't even weep much less leak.
- I installed new stock style push rod tubes over Empi 'both ends in' steel pushrods. It had 2 different sized aluminum p-rods in it.
- I cleaned his bone stock rocker assemblies and re-installed them with new v-adjust screws & our HD nuts. I used .015 rocker stand shims for the geometry.
- I reused his chrome valve covers but he needed new bales.
- I re-installed his: new dual carbs, aluminum stock sized pulley, chrome tins & shroud assembly. His spark plugs, wires & belt were new so they went back on.
- I had to helicoil repair 2 exhaust studs.
- I cleaned his p-plate, clutch disc and flywheel and re-assembled it all since it looked like new.
- Ralph installed the engine at his place and brought the car back for me to fire it up and then set the timing.
- I dialed in the carb mixture screws to run the new 1641 properly.
- I ran my normal rpm tests and then had Ralph take the car out for a drive. After the break in & road trip, I waited until the engine was stone cold and re-adjusted the valves.
- At this point the engine project is done. This job as I outlined it here cost $1975.00
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