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This long block came to me in pieces. All the new parts we sold to the customer beforehand.
The used parts were: a block that we previously had Rimco line bore to 20 over and mate thrust cut the rear mains for a std bearing crank a set of stock rods that we had previously sent to Rimco for rebuild & balancing a pinion gear with 2 shims, used rocker blocks, a stock used 12 Volt 8 dowel flywheel, used oil plungers & springs, 10mm chromoly head studs, both air deflectors for under the cylinders, a set of aluminum pushrods, a cam plug & flywheel seal.
A new Empi oil pump, a new Empi 74 stroke crank, a new cam (I can't recall which) a new set of big valve dual spring heads, a new set of Empi straight cut cam gears, new gasket kit, new windage stainless pushrod tubes, a new set of 92 x 69 Mahle pistons & cylinders which we had to trade up to 92 x 82 for the crank now to be used, a new set of teflon buttons, new std rod bearings, new single thrust cam bearings, new chromoly gland nut & washer, new Empi drilled lobe lifters.
We then added a new Scat billet drain plate kit, a new oil screen, a set of long oil drain plate studs, a set of Empi solid rocker shafts with Empi 1.25:1 ratio rockers, all new v-adjust screws & nuts, a new set of nylocks for all the studs, a new set of wavy washers for all the studs & bolts.
I had to clearance the block for the stroker crank/stock rods combination - that cost an additional $80 - if you use stroker clearanced rods, you don't need to clearance the block. Once the block is clearanced, I assembled the case halves and then installed all the pistons & cylinders and turned the engine over to confirm the clearance work is correct.
The customer had me plug the oil pump and install his 'outlet' face. $20 to plug the pump. The customer also had me drill & tap the block for the oil inlet. He decided to tell me this after I assembled the short block. $40
Shown with a mock up distributor & clamp. |