Doghouse Engines
Part name: build or rebuild your stroker long block type 1
Part number: yslb1
Your cost: $580.00
Description: To have your type 1 VW STROKER long block built from the main bearings out by us, you must supply the following:
  • A clean long block. Pressure wash at a car wash or steam clean the engine before bringing it to be built
  • Bring the long block, which consists of these parts either assembled or not:
    • The drain plate on the bottom
    • The flywheel on the back
    • No pulley on the front
    • No shrouding or tin or exhaust
    • Nothing on top
    • Drain the oil. Bring with no oil in it
  • $580 for labor only, with parts, machine work, and any related shipping being extra.
I will tear it down to the bare block & inspect the block, crank journals & rods.
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: resizing, rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the crank needs work (grinding, dowel repair, welding etc) of any kind, it will most likely get replaced. This OF COURSE depends on the work & your wallet.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be cleaned in our solvent tank, rinsed with Super Clean & water, then blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam & lifters will be inspected for pits or other wear. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new, unless it is recently new to start with.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will NOT be cleaned other than a rinse in the solvent tank). If they leak or are cracked or otherwise need work, you'll get new heads. This OF COURSE depends on the heads, the work & your wallet.
I'll install new pushrod tubes & seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods. If you have spring type, reusable tubes, we'll of course reuse them with new seals & O-rings. If your p-rods are the wrong length or bent, you'll get new ones. The choice of the new one will suggested by me.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used & you'll get the left over gaskets & seals.